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From Blichmann's Website:
Have you longed for a sparging system with a "set-it-and-forget-it" design? The elegantly simple construction of Blichmann Engineering's AutoSparge™ automatically sets the hot liquor flow rate and liquid level in your mash tun. As you change the sparge rate into your boil kettle, the AutoSparge™ automatically responds by increasing or decreasing hot liquor flow to compensate and keeps a constant level in your mash tun.
Newly redesigned - 100% stainless steel, improved o-ring mounting and 1/2" NPT thread.
The AutoSparge™ level and flow control system is an awesome accessory for RIMS systems, and it also works great with gravity systems or with pumps! Wort gently rotates on top of the grain bed to reduce channeling and oxygen pick-up, and to increase extraction efficiency. With a constant hot liquor level over your grain bed, complicated rotating sparge arms are unnecessary!
The AutoSparge™ can be easily installed into any kettle or cooler larger than 12" in diameter.
To install yourself, you'll need to punch / drill a 13/16" hole in your kettle or cooler. A 7/8" hole will work, but it's a little on the big side. We recommend using a step drill or a Greenlee knock-out punch. A great source for these is McMaster-Carr . The step drill is part number 8841A24 (89315A42 for TiN coating) or a punch 3449A999 - requires a 3/8" pilot hole. This particular punch (Greenlee model 730BB) is special-order with a three-day lead time. Slug-Buster types are available in their catalog but do not work well in this application. When drilling stainless steel, a moderate to slow speed is best to avoid overheating the tool. While hole saws will also work, they are difficult to use in stainless sheet metal.
The threaded portion of the AutoSparge™ is not long enough to fit through a 1-2" deep cooler wall, so you will need to use a 2" hole saw for clearance for your hose connection and a smaller hole for mounting the AutoSparge™. To do this, drill a 1/4" pilot hole all the way through the cooler at the desired location. Then, slowly and carefully saw through the outside layer of the cooler. Be careful that you do not accidentally drill all the way through it. Remove the outer cut-out and foam insulation inside the hole. Then, drill the 13/16" mounting hole through the inside wall of the cooler with a step drill. Here are a few shots of the installation in a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler:
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